It’s just after 9 a.m. when I find myself standing under the golden sun in the heart of Beirut, where history, aroma, and flavor collide in the most unforgettable way. The “Flavors of Beirut” tour, curated by Le Passeport Culinaire, isn’t just a food tour—it’s a celebration of Lebanon’s culinary soul.
Our morning begins with the warm hospitality of Al Soussi, a family-run institution that’s been dishing out traditional Beirut breakfasts since 1890. The table is a sensory journey: fava beans stewed with lemon and garlic, creamy msabbaha, and the bold indulgence of eggs with lamb fat—locally known as beid bi awarma.
A bite of sautéed lamb testicles might raise eyebrows, but this delicacy speaks of a time-honored tradition that respects every part of the animal.
From the hearty to the delicate, we move to Ichkhanian, an Armenian bakery operating since 1946.
Here, Lahmadjun—Armenia’s answer to pizza—takes center stage. The pomegranate variation, with its sweet tang and crunchy pine seeds, is a masterclass in balance.
Next, Souk El Tayeb, Beirut’s first farmers’ market, is a burst of colors and conversations.
This “good market,” as its name suggests, connects urban dwellers with rural producers.
It’s here we sip on fresh juice and talk terroir with growers who pour their soul into every tomato and thyme bundle.
A short stroll brings us to the legendary Falafel Sahyoun. Since 1935, this modest stand has been perfecting the art of the falafel sandwich. Crunchy, herb-laden balls nestle into thick flatbread with pickles, spicy peppers, and a drizzle of lemon-sesame magic.
Lunch is devoured at Boubouffe, home to what may be Beirut’s finest lamb shawarma.
Juicy, smoky, and layered with sumac, tomatoes, and chickpea purée, this wrap redefines street food.
In the afternoon, we pause seaside for a fish bite paired with a sip of Arak—the licorice-scented spirit of Lebanon.
Then, at House of Zejd, the spotlight turns to olive oil. Sourced from the northern region of Akkar, these oils connect us to the ancient Phoenician traditions of oleiculture.
For dessert, Samer Al Rashidi Sweets—a 170-year-old pastry haven—dazzles with its selection of delicate baklava, maamoul, and rose-scented nougat. It’s a sugar-dusted finale worthy of a feast.
Our final stop is at Chateau Musar, a globally acclaimed winery in the West Bekaa Valley.
Their organic wines and crystal-clear arak are the perfect closing notes to a day rich in flavor and story.
“Flavors of Beirut” is more than a food tour—it’s a journey through memory, migration, and resilience.
In every bite, a legacy; in every sip, a story. Welcome to Beirut, one flavor at a time.
